Saturday 30 August 2014

Adapting

Moving to a new country always requires a period of adapting and learning. Here are some of the things I am trying to adapt to at the beginning of our time here...

Recent news headlines have drawn attention to the cholera epidemic which hit Juba and other towns within South Sudan. On arrival here, I asked if the cholera outbreak is still a risk. We have been informed that cholera is still present, but not as prevalent a risk as before. However, posters at the entrance to our compound and in the windows of local eating places remind us all to "WASH OUR HANDS, TO REDUCE CHOLERA RISK".  We tried the food at a Juba cafe today, where Esther got worried abut the cholera awareness posters plastered over the cafe doors. She was keen to ask the waitress for a place to wash her hands before she ate her chips. Sensible girl.
These are the posters at the entrance in our MAF compound:

 It is good to have these highly visible precautions. It is also a stark reminder of the health risks in our new environment, which we do well to heed. Fortunately, the children have had some training on this in Tanzania, so it is not a new concept for them; it is just a matter of reinforcing, with an extra good reason to persist with their hand cleaning and being upfront with them about cholera risks.

The subject of cholera brings me neatly onto the subject of clean water. I am learning our new system for water!
First, there is a tank of "city water" which comes by pipe from a city supply of water, which has been purified- in a small way- from its source: the River Nile! It is dispensed into this large tank and we can collect it in large jerrycans, clearly marked with red lids. This is the tank:
 I have not collected the water yet. I am put off by the weight of the jerrycan with its 20 litres to carry- and also by the rotting rat which lies, slowly decomposing, on the ground under the tap!
The sign on the tank indicates that we must filter this water before consuming it:

At home, this is our trusty water filter which did a great job in Dodoma and is now working hard on the water of the River Nile, which is a little murkier and a little more sandy than Dodoma water when it goes in, but comes out at the bottom crystal clear and ready for drinking! Hurrah for water filters!

They do say that after drinking from the Nile, you never want to leave the land where you drank of its waters... I guess that only time will tell if this is true for us!

When city water is not available (it is not a reliable supply), we can collect water from the MAF staff kitchen, from the BLUE TOP jerrycans (not to be confused with the red-lidded jerrycans!). These blue-lidded containers have 20 litres of purchased bottled water, which can be safe for drinking, but we are still advised to filter it anyway... just in case! So we are allowed to collect 2 of these per household, but must return the empties to the staff kitchen so that they can be restocked.

When it comes to washing and tap water and washing machines, we use tap water. This water comes from a wonderful bore hole sunk 80 metres deep under our compound. It is clean and usable, but a water safety test revealed high levels of copper, making it unsuitable for long-term use as drinking water (with some health implications, although we don't know what those would be!). However, we can use it to brush our teeth- which is more than we could do with tap water in Tanzania, so the job of filling water bottles each day for teeth brushing is one job less to do in Juba! :-)

On the topic of washing, let me tell you about my washing machine. In Juba, it lives upstairs. In the bathroom!! This is a new concept for me! It is all plumbed in and happily I am able to use it: but the outflow pipe does not yet have anywhere permanent to flush out the dirty water, so usually I place the pipe over the bath so that the water can drain out through the plughole. Yesterday, the pipe pinged out of place, out of the bath- and the water pumped out all over the bathroom floor! I did not realise until it was too late!! I had a bit of a flood to soak up with towels and sheets:
 It would be out of character if all domestic matters ran completely smoothly- it seems I like to have at least a few domestic disasters in each home, just to make my mark! It was soon cleared up and now the job of securing the water pipe for the outflow will be high on my priority list!

Another area to get used to here is that of electricity. We have a compound generator which runs at fixed hours of the day and is switched off at lunchtime, early evening and at night. Appliances plugged into sockets like the one below will only work if the generator is running:
 I have had to learn which appliances must only be used on generator power. Basically, anything that has a heating element must only run in generator times, like kettles, the iron, the bread-maker, the toaster... plus the  air conditioners.

Other electrical goods can run on the lesser-powered battery-based sockets, which are marked so:
 It is a very clever and carefully thought out system, but one which requires a certain level of skill in the memory department. I have not yet learnt all the generator times. When they differ at weekends, I get in a muddle about what I can plug in where! The use of some items also depends on which type of socket is where in each room!
 The other day I had a drama with the ironing. I plugged the iron in one socket, then realised it was a battery socket and the iron should be on a generator socket. So I moved the iron to another socket across the room and then moved the board and clothes etc. Then I had to check the generator times to see if I was able to use generator power. Finally, I did the ironing! So now there are some logistics involved in planning domestic jobs!

I also need to remember to plan any bread-making in my brilliant new bread-maker around the generator times, but I am learning that have to plan for unexpected blips, like the other day when the generator ran out of diesel or something and was switched off at an unscheduled time, leaving my loaf half-baked in a redundant machine! Fortunately, my gas oven was on for baking, so I slipped the loaf in to the oven to finish it off. The oven was the wrong temperature for bread, so my loaf came out burnt outside and doughy inside! We had an interesting lunch that day!!

Just to add a bit of spice, sometimes the Juba city power supply is working. To save burning fuel unnecessarily, the city power will run on our homes and over-ride the generator, which is then turned off. This means that we may have bursts of power in our generator sockets at unprecedented times. At night, for example, a machine may burst into life that was assumed to be off for the night while the generator is scheduled to be off. One night, our air conditioners suddenly sprang into action and woke us all, freezing us in our beds just as we had acclimatised to the hot air of a Juba night!
It is all very confusing and I still have a lot to get used to in this whole electricity department!

Another thing to get used to is the city environment around us. It can be too easy to stay in my house, switch on the air-conditioner (if it is generator time!!) and tune out the life of  the people of Juba whose country I am living in. However, all I need to do is look out of my bedroom window to remind myself that this is Africa and that life for many is lived without western comforts that I too often take for granted:
When I see my neighbours lighting their fires to cook their meals, or traipsing through the mud between the different parts of their living quarters or carrying their buckets of water for washing, I face the fact that we are living in a developing nation- and one that has a turbulent recent history. I have so, so much to learn about living in Juba and the people of this new nation where we are now based.

One thing, though, remains the same: my children's fascination for all things related to nasty creatures such as lizards or snakes! Esther and Ben found these little eggs in the compound and are trying their best to encourage them to hatch in a sheltered part of our garden:
They are convinced that a snake or lizard will appear! If it does, I have already told them that we cannot keep it as a pet! Having a reptile in our new home would be one thing too many for me to adapt to!


Introducing....

....our new cat, Woodlea:


Mr. Woodlea came with our new house. In fact, he is the reason that we moved in to this particular house, as his previous owners used to live here and had made him a nifty little cat-flap in the back of the house. On their departure from Juba for Canada, they needed new owners for Woodlea. We were pleased to step up as his new family!





Poor Woodlea has had a bit of a shock since we moved in!
I think he reigned as King of the Castle in a home with 2 doting adults and no children to compete with for attention. Now he has a noisy set of owners, where boisterous noise has replaced the ordered calm he had been accustomed to! He has been seeking refuge from the banter and action of family life, where 3 children clamour to play with him, stroke him and generally create a busy and noisier environment! This is where I found him this week, curled up in my wardrobe:
I got quite a fright when whiskers and a furry head appeared as I leaned into my cupboard to fetch my bag! Although he has the freedom to come and go as he likes from indoors to outdoors (unlike Moshi, who lived outdoors in Dodoma), I am not too keen on cats among my clothes, so we are trying to train him to stay downstairs! I am not sure this plan will work out! He seems reluctant to listen- in fact, he just wandered in to this upstairs room as I type this...!
Woodlea is good natured and we are enjoying him, although we are all learning to avoid the moments when he has a playful mood and darts out suddenly from under the furniture to attack us unexpectedly!
Esther asked me the other day if I like Moshi or Woodlea best of all. She still misses little Moshi -and the kittens she produced. It is certain that Woodlea will not be producing any of those! However, he is very cute! It is fun to have a cat in the family again for our new home.

P.S. we heard that Moshi was a big hit with the new Finnish family who moved into our Dodoma home :-) When they moved up to Arusha, we heard that they took Moshi with them, which is lovely to know!

Sunday 24 August 2014

Our New Home

These five flags represent the five countries we have lived and worked in over the past ten years.

From the UK, to South Africa and then to Tanzania. Next was Kenya- and today I can add South Sudan! Esther and Ben have lived in each of these countries at some point in their short lives. Joel has lived in all but South Africa.

We are just starting to settle in here in Juba; it is good to have a home again with all our belongings, after an unsettling period of uncertainty in Kenya.
We find ourselves living on a secure compound, shared between MAF and another charity called World Relief.
Behind tall metal gates lies the MAF base for South Sudan, complete with pre-fab offices, car-park and a residential compound.

Here are a few pictures...

Our house is lovely and new! It was completed only last year, with the aim of housing a staff family for MAF. It is fun having a recently built house, complete with the wonderful invention of air conditioning units! What a bonus in this hot and sultry land! It also comes with plenty of security, with bars and security gates and panic-buttons for emergency situations that we hope will not arise, but that we have have to be prepared for. I still have not worked out all the different keys for the all the different locks! That is on my to-do list for this week!

Outside the front door, I was delighted to discover the beautiful flowers pictured below! It was a welcome sight on our arrival here almost two weeks ago. I did not expect to see such colourful blooms in such a hot place, but in this rainy season, I am seeing that Juba is incredibly green and fertile. These pretty flowers were planted by the previous occupants of our home. I hope I remember to water them enough, as I love this splash of colour by my front door!

On coming out of the house, it is a short walk down the garden path, past our next-door neighbour's house and up to this bamboo fence, to enter the MAF car park and office area:


Turning away from the car park, there are a set of metal gates to pass through, which lead into the main section of the compound...

...where an oasis awaits! This green, shady area is a welcome relief from the hot sun and the dusty, busy streets outside of the compound gates. In addition, it provides us with a great place for the children to play...
...and for the adults to catch up on the latest news!

Today, we had a team photo of the MAF South Sudan International staff who reside with us on this compound:
From this team, our kids have some compound play-mates, from Holland, Canada and South Sudan. Three of the kids will soon be back to boarding school in Kenya, but it is brilliant that there are a few other children for Esther, Ben and Joel to spend time with and share their South Sudan experience as they adapt to our new home.

Thursday 21 August 2014

Shopping Trip

I spent 446 pounds today on our food shopping.

Here is the list of goods I bought:

6 apples- 15 pounds
2 oranges- 6 pounds
8 bananas- 10 pounds

Then there was the visit to the meat shop, situated near to the airport, where meat is imported directly from Kenya and sold a little bit cheaper than elsewhere in Juba. This was a chance to stock up our freezer for the months ahead.

I spent...

4 small chickens (each chicken weighs 1.1 kg)- 100 pounds
a bag of minced beef (1kg)- 45 pounds
2 fillets of Nile perch fish- 50 pounds
4 kg sausages- 140 pounds
500 grams of cheddar cheese- 35 pounds
2 boerwors sausages - 45 pounds.

To be fair, the pounds I refer to are South Sudanese pounds! The exchange rate to a British pound is about 5 South Sudanese pounds to 1 British pound; this makes my total shopping bill around about £90. This still feels like a fairly large sum of money for the food I bought. I can't help wondering what I would pay at Sainsburys or Tescos for the same amount of food?

I feel like there are 3 things I will have to adapt to in Juba as I shop for our family of 5:
- dealing in the high figures and wads of notes which are required when spending South Sudanese pounds
- gritting my teeth and paying higher prices for foods than I would expect to pay on Kenya, Tanzania or England
- learning how to weigh up the guilt I feel when paying for food with vast amounts of South Sudanese bank notes when I am painfully aware of the poverty around me for the average person I meet behind the shop counter, in the food queue and in the street; and acutely aware of the looks cast on us as we pay our huge food bills. I have to balance this with the need to feed my family with foods that I know are good for them and healthy for my children's growth. It's a very difficult situation.

Today, we are off to visit a soap centre where ladies make soap and sell it, as a way to provide for their families. It is always so much easier to visit these places as a foreigner, when you know that spending money directly benefits the seller. Being a foreigner in Juba, with our foreign eating habits and expensive diet is much harder on my conscience during the average food-shopping trip.

Tuesday 19 August 2014

The Journey

Day 1

Our journey to Juba began early on Saturday morning, August 9th. We rose early, around 05:45, ready to set off for our new home and place of work! We sailed from Cowes in the Isle of Wight, bound for England's mainland, on the 7am ferry...
 Munching our breakfast on board the ferry, we said farewell to the lovely Isle of Wight.
We had 11 pieces of luggage with us, safely stowed in our hire-car on the car deck, but a certain suitcase contained a very special item: my brand new bread-maker, which I have been assured we cannot do without in Juba! I never thought I'd see the day that I would travel with such a big item in a suitcase, but I squeezed it into that suitcase the day before...
 ...and I packed it in securely with sweaters and fleeces, to try and protect it from being damaged as the case was thrown about on and off the aeroplanes!
 This mighty machine is not only here in Juba with me today, but has been trialed and found to make the most delicious bread :-)) It was worth all the effort of squeezing and shoving and sitting on the suitcase to get it to close, in order to get the breadmaker here!
We then drove up to London and spent the day and overnight with a good friend and her family, before continuing the next day.

Day 2
The taxi called for us at our London address at a bright and breezy 06:30. Bleary-eyed, we lugged our baggage into the taxi and made our way to Heathrow for the all-day flight to Nairobi.

We got to Nairobi a little bit late and then had to wait a looooooong time for the luggage to be off-loaded onto the airport carousel. Around midnight, we finally emerged into the cool Nairobi night air, to be given a lift from a kind friend back to the Nairobi MAF compound. We gratefully sank into our beds there around 1am.

Day 3
Waking up on Day 3 at 05:50 felt painful!
We were picked up around 06:30 to drive to Nairobi's Wilson airport, to board the MAF shuttle flight to Juba. The pilot was a South African friend who flew us to language school on our very first few weeks with MAF in Tanzania back in 2009! It seemed only right that we should have the same pilot to start us on our way with our next MAF venture! Along with 3 other passengers, we 5 all boarded as passengers, including Andrew, who was off duty on this flight!
All aboard for Juba...


There was a sense of familiarity for me as I gazed down on the arid African landscape of northern Kenya:
 What was different was seeing the local housing as we landed for a brief stop to off-load passengers and freight at Lokkichoggio:

The second leg of the flight revealed a new landscape. This is South Sudan in the rainy season- what a contrast to the dry earth of northern Kenya at this time of year!

I spent much of this leg of the journey regretting the 2 chapati and the bottle of fruit juice I had guzzled at our interval in Lokkichoggio! I was feeling rather queasy, so it was with great relief that I noted the moment when we began the descent over the River Nile...

 ...and we soon spied Juba below us as we came in to land:

We came low enough to see the houses (the round houses are apparently called "tukuls"):

  Soon, we were on the ground! My stomach was pleased to be on solid ground again! We were all excited to finally be in the place of our new home, after waiting so long to get here- as well as a little apprehensive about all the things we have yet to learn about living in this new country.

It was great to move straight into our new home- and even better to get a good night's sleep that night, without having to wake up early for a boat, a taxi ride or a flight!
The house was chaos, with boxes and suitcases and muddle abounding, but by lunchtime the next day, we had our tablecloth on the table and found a delicious banana loaf in our fridge (baked by a kind neighbour :-)). The cake doubled up as an impromptu 40th birthday cake for a certain family member- happy to celebrate that life in Juba certainly does begin at 40!

Saturday 16 August 2014

Finally Here!!

We are finally in Juba!

No more "living in limbo". The journey has been made and the Parker family are in their new home, in South Sudan. We have now been here 5 days. We are happy to be in our own home, with our own boxes of goods to unpack!

There is so much to learn. So much to see. And so much to do to make our home in this new land. As I write this, I am surrounded by a mess of half-unpacked boxes, overflowing bins full of packing materials, curtains draped over an ironing board waiting to be ironed, a jumble of  newly rediscovered toys, with the shiny floor tiles below my feet already covered in mud, where my boys have already made their mark (Juba mud is apparently just as much fun to play in as the mud of any other country!!).

I have so much I would love to blog about and so many photos I would like to share. However, right now, I need to hang up some curtains and hunt for clean pyjamas for the children to change into for the evening. It's amazing how ordinary domestic life can be, even immediately following a major move with our 3-day journey to get here from England's Isle of Wight!

I hope there will be lots of stories to relate from our new home in South Sudan. I look forward to blogging them on this new blog site!

Still in East Africa!

 It seems as though Google takes down a blog website if it is not active for a certain period of time. I can no longer find the almost 5 yea...